Lake Tekapo - Lights in the Dark

While clouds shrouded Mt Cook's summit on the road behind, the road ahead had more than plenty of sunlight to throw at us yet. And it was that low-sun-in-the-late-summer-sky time of the day that the sun persists right into ones eyeballs.

Remind you (since there are long breaks between posts) this was the same day we explored both Clay Cliffs and Mt Cook National Park & Tasman Glacial Lake, AND of which the very night preceding all this was the one in Omarama. The one where Melody and I cried and Danforth crashed hard asleep with the flu and nightmares.  Needless to say, by this point in the day we were all fairly fried.

And blinded by the sun.

I was not at my best behavior, thrashing around the cramped hot vehicle, trying to escape the persistent flashing. So when we rolled into Lake Tekapo the irony did not strike at that moment- for all the focused rage at the sun and brightness of the late evening sky - that we were actually pulling into - get this - a DARK SKY RESERVE! Markedly one of the world's best places for stargazing.

But this moment we were presently focused on regaining some composure in the form of a proper meal and some beds for the night. 

However, the town was bustling with all kinds of bodies and barriers to find either. 

We struck out at every turn. Whether it be overpriced or overcrowded.  So, in the end, we resorted to the campground yet again.  Navigating a dizzying maze of sites and roads we f i n a l l y found registration, and snagged one of the final lots in the farthest corner of this crazy zoo of a place. A non-notable patch of grass in the corner of two fences. At last, we could finally set our minds on food.  We decided that splurging on a feast of a meal would be preferred over overly expensive beds for a night anyway.

At last with a place to sit and settle - despite somehow ending up in a seat where even the ceiling lights slightly glared in my eyes - the mood finally made a turnaround. We got a chuckle at the waiters nonchalant straight-faced way of casually setting two sets of serrated knives in front of our 5 & 8 year olds (leaving us with none) and walking away like it was a totally normal thing to do. At last, we savored delicious lamb dishes, & Corey cooked raw steaks and chicken on a sizzling salted stone at our table for the kids. In the company of retired folk eating their french fries with fork and knife, we felt like our composure had returned.

In much revived spirits, we headed to our little corner of the campground at the Lakes Edge.

In record time, we setup camp and got ready for bed. We knew the drill by now. We each snuggled into our designated spots and took turns telling stories, weaving in whatever random elements that everyone else picks.  We had some good deep belly laughs as my story crumbled into chaos as my body and brain shut down for the night. Corey took over then, and lulled us to sleep with a multi-layer story of other worlds and dimensions. 

As I drifted off, a smile crept into my lips.  One of my little life theory's proving itself; that often at a low point on the road where it just feels impossible, and is tempting to give up, throw in the towel, or write off the experience as "not working for you"....one may just be on the cusp of a breakthrough.  Of really finding their stride with just a bit of persistence, patience, and flexibility. 

Here was a highlight that could have been altogether missed.  Our family stuffed in this tent, cozy as could be, full bellied, and belly laughing till tears came. 

And a night, that was just about to get even better. 

I burst awake in (what seemed to me) the dead of night. The fog of my mind caused by flu remnants, glaring lights, hunger, and fatigue...now dissipated.  I couldn't believe the opportunity at hand that was very nearly missed.

The stars.  Corey...the stars! 

We pulled sleeping bags and pads down the ladder and onto the grass. Corey (who like always, had been clear headed and a step ahead the night prior) had downloaded a star gazing app. 

And under clear skies of the night, we learned the constellations of the Southern sky.  It was utterly euphoric.

As the light of dusk crept up, we watched stars slowly fade until the Southern Cross/Crux and two near star clusters were the only that remained. 

As the sun peeked over the mountains across the lake, I dozed off and woke nearly an hour later to couples and families making their breakfasts. (Notice I'm still asleep in the pic above) 

We soon joined the movement to a feast of scrambled eggs, toast and cheese.  I sipped lemon ginger tea in my new mug.  

To think we could have missed all of this just for some lousy beds in a hotel.  Definitely one of my favorite nights of the trip by far.

We packed up camp, and headed over to Tekapo Springs "water park" to soak in a choice of 5 different spring fed pools, each of varying temperatures.  The morning was perfectly overcast and cool.  We soaked until our cheeks were pink, then cooled off in the kids splash area and colder temp pool.

This was a nearly perfect transition into the next phase of our trip, until, just as we were thinking it might be time to leave this calm rejuvenating place, Melody of all people, steps on a bee.

Shrieking and screaming, she made quite a scene in this realm of calm people soaking quietly. I held her and got a lifeguard to help get the stinger out and apply some ointment.  Eventually she calmed down, and we took our cue, it was time to leave.

We hit the road saying bye to this beautiful yet overly saturated little town.  For all the beauty of the South Island, we were ready for a break from remote landscapes and for some time in a city. 

The yellowed fields became green fields as we headed farther north.  Kids and I played Uno in the backseat, and before we knew it, we were in back in civilization. 

-M