Kaikōura - Treasures from the Depths

For the better or worse, I've found that experiences accumulate and the outcome impact is far greater than its individual parts.  (Ready for a slightly petty side trail?)

That's what I experienced as one of my favorite earrings slipped into an impossible crack in the center console.  This was following a disruptive attempt to nap, with sun blazing and flashing on me, winding bumpy roads with overly bouncy suspension, and too many weeks now living out of a pile of bags in a crammed vehicle. The darn pokey earrings I finally conceded to take off and sit down...silently bumped their way, and pop, one slipped right into a crack.  Though still retrievable, in my momentarily all-thumbs-&-half-asleep state of panic, I manically tried to pull it out using a pen amidst all the bumping and jolting of the vehicle on these windy roads, until poof...down the crack and into the depths of the plastic tomb it went.

I'm sure everyone else would have handled this with more maturity.  I however, acted like a giant toddler.  I threw what was no short of an adult tantrum. I broke down. Huge uncontrollable chest heaving sobs and a temporary lapse of my sanity. 

I suspect it was the accumulative effect of a lack of a kind of stationary stability that home gives.  Though insignificant in the grand scheme, for me in that particular moment it was the final straw. Corey pulled the car over, and Melody threw herself upon me in a giant hug.

Following which she promptly said...in these exact words:

"Mommy can you please cry a little quieter cos I'm trying to hear the movie." 

Oh comedy in tragedy. That was a good laugh, but not quite enough to shake me from my mood.

For the remainder of the trip, I was sullen, hot, & cramped. Even as we got the first sight of the ocean, huge waves crashing upon massive boulders, winding along and through rock cuts and through several tunnels...my mood was unfortunately there to stay. I forced myself to take a picture though, knowing that my normal-self would have wanted that.  

As we approached Kaikōura, I had resolved to sulking in bed once we arrived and to lay there indefinitely. To show indifference at it all (even though, if you know anything about me, the coast/beach is my absolute favorite place).

And, of course, as it would be, of alllllll the airbnb experiences in my entire life...the host was there ready to greet us with the most hospitable, friendliest, & chattiest welcome ever. 

I was immediately insecure of my swollen eyes and blotched face.  But I confessed my road weary state to her and was met with sheer kindness. What a gift. 

Her welcoming personality equally matched her accommodations and we discovered the "luxury" and thoughtful space that would be home for the next few days.

And you know what...after unpacking, and finally in a calmer state, I walked out to the vehicle to inspect this darn center console, just in case. And wouldn't you know...there JUST HAPPENED to be an opening (as in a crack in the plastic) at the bottom, just large enough for me to reach a finger in to one exact spot...aannnddd...can you guess?  The darn "straw that broke the camels back" was.....right. there. Right there at fingers reach. It was retrieved.  A small miracle. 

Sheesh. 

I came in all sheepish, announced the news, and we promptly headed to the beach.

Just across the quiet road from our place, a fantastic black stony beach was met by endless waves in continual succession. Crashing releasing, crashing, and releasing. 

I dove into the waves and released all the emotional baggage into the glorious and salty expanse of the South Pacific. 

We lounged, discovered, swam, and snacked. Surfers came down and began to fill the bay and we thoroughly acknowledged the perfection here that was at hand. 

A simple dinner followed by a jaunt through town and time at another beach. This one cautioned swimmers, as mammoth surf crashed upon the shore in long powerful swells.  Our kids ran with unhindered exuberance across the massive expanse of stones, Melody twirling her banner ribbon behind...

We rose early the next morning for coffee & tea on the shore to watch the sunrise.  While we sat taking in the scope of this incredible place a man walked past and cheerfully exclaimed to us "Best place to be this time of day!" 

So true.

After a breakfast feast, we packed up for a beach day knowing the following days held rain in the forecast. One of our hosts had offered us to use their grandkids kayaks, so naturally we took him up on that offer! And we were off.

Large swells crashing made it tricky to get out/come in on the kayak, so I went first to test it out (before bringing kids along).  It was thrilling trying to make it past crashing surf (bigger than it looks in photo form), but once I was out it was peaceful bobbing upon the swells.  On the return, I let one of the breakers hit me full on from behind just to see how much control I would have coming onto the shore with the kids...and...I got completely flipped!  I turned up a soggy laughing mess, hat, clothes, sunglasses and all. 

We decided it wasn't wise to bring kids through the breakers, but Corey and I enjoyed riding the large swells, paddling just out to the end of the jagged rocks.

The kids didn't mind whatsoever, as the black smooth stone beach provided endless entertainment. Burying one another, the satisfaction of running hands over and over the stones, and the joys of fully laying upon sun soaked stones. 

Fog lingered on the horizon and slowly began drifting in.  We headed inside for a mid-day break from the sun to lounge.  

After some time, we roused the kids from their happy lazy state. This was our one sunny day in Kaikōura after all! We headed to check out the seal colony just up the road. 

Mesmerizing surf pounded the rocks, and a couple seals lazed in the sun. 

To see more seals, we ventured on a bit further around the point.  Along the way a girl, Charlotte (from Germany), befriended our kids, because she and Danforth both were wearing NASA shirts! After some initial shyness, and despite a language barrier, after no time they had warmed up and were running along the stony path together. 

In no time, we were upon the colony. Easily a hundred or more seals perched on jagged and layered rocks. Pups clambered around making all kinds of noises. They were out quite a distance, but it was awesome to see! The rocks were especially fascinating. More tangible evidence of the colliding tectonic plates upon which New Zealand sits and gets her majestic rugged terrain.    

The mid-afternoon heat and intense sun didn't entice us to continue on around the point in search of more colonies or other wildlife, so we turned back and headed into town.  

We decided on an ultra-early dinner at a seafood place outside (& in the shade.) The kids got to try their first taste of calamari (squid) and I tried shark! We also celebrated big news Corey had gotten earlier that day: that he had made "President's Club" in his company for a successful year, which means he and I will receive an all-expense trip to Croatia in May! WOWZA! 

After dinner we savored some boysenberry ice cream down at the shore.  The huge swells never get old.  Much like watching a fire blaze in the dark, the sea has a mesmerizing way of being endlessly captivating. 

We watched rain roll in on the horizon, and knew the sunny weather was soon coming to a close. 

Back at the bnb we enjoyed hanging out with our host David, and took a little "tour" of his garage whisky distillery while the floodgates of the sky opened in what my dad would have definitely called a "gully washer."

We had come to our last night at the bnb, however felt zero inclination to leave.  Road weariness still not fully shaken, the rain yet on the forecast, the fantastic hospitality, and utter luxury of this place compelled us to extend our stay for another night. 

Rains persisted through the night and we slept deeply.  

Morning brought a brief walk and morning lessons with the kids.  A day to just live and just BE.  David shared a heap of fresh garden fruit from his friend with us, and he picked some sun warmed tomatoes for us from his garden just behind our place. Beaming with gratitude we thanked him heartily. 

The day brought several outings to the shore, some in rain, & some in the mist.  We experienced sheer exuberant joy in finding multiple Pāua shells among many other beach treasures.  

Corey stood at the waters edge to test the swells height. We discovered a clam and brought it home to watch it and learn about it.  

A night of family games and enjoying one another. Of steak pie and green beans and salad. And finally comes the frustrated packing frenzy that must always come with leaving a place. We top off our last evening with mugs of coco and releasing our clam friend back to the sea. 

Then bedtime came quite suddenly, as Corey accidentally gave Danforth a full dropperful of Melatonin (when we normally give the kids one drop each as needed)!   

Sunday morning was relaxed and with plenty of time to meander and do computer things before checking out. 

Rains on again, we loaded the car and headed to an Anglican church service having no idea what we'd come upon.

It was quaint and welcoming.  The kids were invited to light candles, and as the songs began and the service progressed, I felt the ache surfacing of a conversation I had had with Corey just a couple nights prior, on the challenges of faith. 

(This very thing I had been mulling over since back in Kingston as well.) 

The whole message LITERALLY centered around the idea that admitting we do not know, that being okay with uncertainty, may be one of the most important things we do. 

Of how bewilderment may be the rule. 

 

That "believe" comes from "beleven" a German word which means to love, treasure, to hold someone beloved. 

 

That Faith is less about intellectual assent and more about surrender, trust, and throwing ourselves into God's hands.  

 

That there is a great mercy designed to bring us beyond intellect and into a deeper "knowing". 

 

To make space for mystery. 

 

To "believe" is to fall in love....

 

...and to stay there. 

  

Moved to tears at several parts of the message, it was by no accident that we happened, of all places in the world, to be in this tiny congregation this very morning listening to these words. 

The familiar hymns, and somehow even the children's song with hand motions "I just thank you Lord for making me me" was moving.  

When the voices lifted to conclude the service with a Māori te reo translation of The Lord's Prayer, thats when I finally just let the tears escape and slide down my cheeks. 

Here's a powerful performance of it: 

The morning was concluded with tea in the hall, conversation, cookies, and even vegemite biscuits. My parched social side soaked in as much connection as I could, but after some time the family was ready to hit the road we left and drove north into the drizzle.  

I really wasn't ready to leave this little town, but we carried treasures on with us both in pockets and in hearts from this dear place. 

We took a quick stop in BLENHEIM for lunch, and despite disagreeing philosophies on where to eat, we ended up in an empty Korean restaurant and enjoyed the slow moving hospitality of kind and very aged man, and the delicious food he served.  

I walked the city block to find mostly closed shops, and then we were back in the vehicle.  Through rolling vineyards, the ever turning, and ever beautiful New Zealand roads, we completed our final stretch of road on the South Island. 

Now, we would face our fate with the Ferry situation that we'd been hearing on the news that some travelers were stranded for weeks trying to cross the Strait. 

And we had a borrowed vehicle to return in just days, that had new owners already lined up waiting to purchase it!

-M